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Saturday, April 30, 2011

Tea Leaves and Coffee Grounds in the Garden

Tea and coffee have long been acknowledged as beneficial for the garden.

There is an old flower garden here which was long neglected, the previous owners were elderly and yard maintenance declined over the years. I can envision the couple stepping out on to the deck in the early morning and dropping their tea bags over the rail directly into the garden. I discovered many tea bags in that little garden for the first couple years. This seems like an easy and good practice, when it rains the plants will get a little weak tea water. However, for the leaves to become a part of the flora community you need to rip those bags open. The leaves need to be able to combine with the soil and compost which they can’t do unless the bag is opened before adding into the garden.

The same practice goes for coffee pouches. These are pre-measured, great and easy for a quick pot of coffee but again, rip them open before adding to the garden or the compost bin.

We take great enjoyment in our gardens and sometimes a little extra step can have an enormous benefit for the garden and therefore for us.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Planting Your First Vegetable Garden?

If you have decided this is the year you are finally going to get a vegetable garden in, start preparing now. Start with a small garden, you can always expand your plot but you don’t want to exhaust or disappoint yourself by going too big too soon.

Plant what you like. If you cook a lot of Italian dishes then go for tomatoes, oregano, sweet peppers. Try a salad garden with a variety of lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers. Plant peppers in large pots then partially sink them into the garden, when the temperature drops you can pull them out and take them indoors, they will last months longer is a sunny spot. Want vegetables through the winter with little work at preserves, plant peas and beans with a variety of herbs you can hang to dry.

A small garden with a variety of plants is a lot healthier than a large plot with rows of plants.

When you line all the plants up in rows you make them more susceptible to pest and disease. If a pest comes along and starts to munch on one of your tomato plants it will go right along the whole row chomping on each and destroying your full harvest. If you mix it up when the pest hops to the next plant it is not of its liking, it leaves and tries the next and then takes off for better pickings. Mix your veggies and herbs up just like you would a flower garden and the confused pests will take a far lower tole on your plants. A mixed up garden also looks a lot nicer than those boring rows. I call row planting Farm Gardening, farmers have to plant in long straight rows of the same type of vegetable because they use machines to plant, fertilize, and harvest. A nicely planned out vegetable garden looks as lovely as a well tended flower garden, and it is just as relaxing and calming a place to sit and relax.

So, choose well, start small and mix it up and you will have a lovely garden to enjoy your morning coffee in and healthy food on your table.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Checking Soil Composition Before Planting

Planning on digging a garden this spring? This would be a great time to check your soil composition. Whether your soil is mainly clay, sand, silt or a perfect blend will determine what you need to do to build your soil to grow the plants you would like. Here is an easy method to let you know what you are in for. Take a clean glass jar and fill about half way with your soil and then fill it with water. Shake the jar like crazy to completely break down the soil and blend it with the water, you don’t want chunks. Place the jar in a location where it will not be disturbed for at least 24 hours. If the water is still very cloudy let it sit longer, fine clay particles can take a while to settle. The soil will settle in the water in layers according to the weight of the particles. Sand will be on the bottom of the jar with a layer of silt next and finally a layer of clay on top. Perfect soil composition is equal amounts in each layer. The humus content of your sample will be left floating on top.

If you are growing plants requiring very good drainage and drier conditions you would need a larger sand content layer in the jar, or add sand to your plot.

This is a good measurement to take before you begin to dig a new garden or to check on the progress of an established garden plot.

Gardening from the ground up.

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Check Your Mulch or Compost for Pesticide Residue

The merits of mulch are well known but how do you know if the mulch you are using is safe?

The benefit of using straw or hay as a mulch has been questioned. Unless you know the farmer and can ask what chemicals have been used in the fields how do you know the mulch you are using on your organic fruits and vegetables is pesticide free?
Clopyralid and aminopyralid, of the pyralid class of pesticides, are commonly used on hay and straw fields. Traces of these chemicals can be found not only in straw and hay but also in manure and compost as it comes through the food chain.

To test straw/hay mulch place equal parts of mulch and water in a clean container and soak overnight.

The next day, take ten 4-inch seedling pots and if it is a cool time of year plant peas if it is a warm time of year plant beans for quick germination. Label the pots into two groups, one, mulch water and the other clean water. Next, strain the mulch and water mix and use only this water on the five pots in the mulch group. If there is pyralid residue in the mulch material there will be poor germination and those that do germinate may be deformed or have curled leaves.

To test manure you want to use in your garden, pot up peas or beans as above. Next mix equal parts of manure and water and mix well until fully blended. Strain off three cups of liquid and use this on half the pots and clean water on the other, again, make sure the pots are labeled into the two groups. Watch for poor germination rate and any sign of deformity or leaf curling in the manure water group.

To test compost set up the ten pots into the two groups with five pots containing the compost you want to use and the other five pots containing regular potting soil. Water both groups the same.

Peas and beans germinate quickly and any sign of a tainted medium should be visible within a few days.

Whether you use compost, manure or straw it is best to test the medium for pyralid residue before using on your prized vegetable and berry gardens.

Healthy Food…. Healthy People

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Egg Shell Precautions for Compost and Birds

Calcium is a beneficial nutrient in your garden, a lack of calcium can result in deformed or curling of new leaves and poor root development.

Brassicas – cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower…- benefit from the addition of calcium. A good source of calcium not to overlook is egg shell. Whether using egg shells direct to the soil or in the compost bin they are a benefit to the garden. Tomatoes and peppers like crushed shells worked into the soil around them.

Wild birds also are attracted to a calcium offering when they cannot get it naturally from the soil surface. During the winter months I often put crushed egg shells on the bird feeding platform and they love it.

Before you start to toss all shells out for the wildlife or into the compost bucket there is a precaution. Egg shells are good for the garden, but not eggs, whether raw or cooked. Unless they have been thoroughly washed egg shells still have egg white inside, and raw egg breeds salmonella. This is not good in your garden and certainly not healthy for the birds.

All residue must be removed inside and out of the shell before using. Washing fragile shells can be quite a task so an easier method is to bake them. Place the shells on a cookie sheet and bake at 250o for 30 minutes. This will sterilize the shells and make it safe for garden and wildlife. Let the shells cool down completely and if you are feeding them to the birds the pieces should be broken to under ¼”.

For the garden, direct or composter, they need to be smaller still. A simple way to crush the shells is to place them between paper towels, wax paper or newspaper and using a rolling pin or a can crush to a fine grit. This will speed up the breakdown for plants to absorb and when sprinkled direct around the base of a plant the small shards inhibit slugs and many other crawling pests.

A few simple steps and egg shells are a great enhancement in your backyard for healthy plants and birds.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

A Quick Control for Slugs and Grubs

Trying to control slugs and grubs that are in your garden munching your plants at night can be a tiresome Endeavour. To save you time and to save your beautiful plants try placing a few slices of cucumber in a small aluminum pie or tart tin and place it in your garden. The chemical reaction between the cucumber and aluminum gives off a scent grubs and slugs do not like. A quick and easy way to rid yourself of garden pests.

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Stop Weeds WIth Newspaper

A great way to stop weeds around your plants is with newspaper. Rip the newspaper into strips and soak in clean water.
Dig the hole for your plant and work in any compost or nutrients you would usually incorporate into your soil and plant your plants. Once they are planted and covered with good soil take the newspaper strips and layer, overlapping them around the plant. Top off with a good mulch. The newspaper and mulch will help to retain water and keep the soil and roots moist. By overlapping the paper you form a barrier that will block out weeds.
An easy way to cut down on weeds and save you time in the garden and now is a great time to save newspapers. Just use the black and white print pages, do not use any pages with colour on them.